A candid look at what ETBD puts its travelers through. This journal is worth reading for anyone going to Turkey since it describes what we figure is the most exciting two weeks in that country. It's of particular interest to anyone considering joining us on one of our popular two week Turkey tours with Mehlika Seval. For the latest on tour dates, prices and seat availability, give ETBD a call at 206-771-8303, ext. 17. While this is an account of a tour done in 1991, the route and experiences are essentially the same this year. Merhaba! (A completely different communal journal from a 1995 tour is available for downloading at: http://www.safe.com/dal/turkey)
Turkey Through the Back Door
May 8 to May 20 1991
with Mehlika Seval and Rick Steves
A journal by:
Sarah Cross
Joyce and John Ditore
Mary An and Bob Hutchison
Laura Kinney
Alice and Cass Kowaleski
Bob Kwong
Lavon and Dave McCallum
Shirley and John Morgan
Ruth Nelson
Edie and Jack Orner
Barb and Tony Shindelus
Betsy and Gordon Stevenson
Dear Back Door Traveler,
Thanks for your interest in our Turkey tour program. The best and most straight-forward way for us to explain this exciting and unique tour is to give you a copy of a recent "group journal." This is our most popular country-specific tour and, I think, the most challenging and rewarding that we offer. (Just two months ago I took my parents and wife on it. I've stuck in a few of their snap-shots for visual relief.) For the right person it's a travel dream come true. For the wrong person, it's no Turkish delight. Each tour does a communal journal in which each person takes a day to be the group scribe. After the tour ETBD types it up and mails each tour participant a copy as a souvenir. This journal tells generally what to expect if you decide to travel with us through Turkey. I have editted it only to make it reflect more accurately any small itinerary and hotel changes we've made as this tour as evolved over the last few years. For tour specifics and more information, read the promo page at the end of this journal, give us a call and ask for our free Turkey tour video. We hope you'll join us for a fascinating and even life-changing travel experience.
Thanks,
Rick Steves
Dec 1, 1993
date activity Over night in:
May 8 1991 Arrive Istanbul, meet Meli Istanbul
Thu May 9 Istanbul sights Istanbul
Fri May 10 Istanbul and Bosphorus Cruise Train
Sat May 11 Ankara Cappadocia
Sun May 12 Cappadocia Cappadocia
Mon May 13 Guzelyurt Guzelyurt
Tue May 14 Konya Konya
Wed May 15 Antalya Antalya
Thu May 16 Mediterranian Cruise Antalya
Fri May 17 Aphrodisias Pamukkule
Sat May 18 Hierapolis, Kusadasi Kusadasi
Sun May 19 Ephesus Kusadasi
Mon May 20 Sail to Greece, orient on Samos island Samos
Tue May 21 tour over, explore Samos Samos
Wed May 22 Fly to Athens
Arrival, Wed. May 8th, Istanbul
Rick Steves
Today twenty Americans, whose loved ones asked "Why Turkey?" came together in Istanbul and quickly began to answer that question. One by one we gathered in the lobby, nursing a glass of tea and wondering what thrills and spills awaited us. Our hotel, Hotel Ayasofya, sits in a kid-strewn residential area near the teeming Bosphorus nearly in the shadow of the great mosque it's named after. Half the houses look like a Dickens story set--crumpled, wooden three storied houses, formally the homes of generals and government officials, now tiredly leaning on each other. Like scenes out of a Turkish Rockwell scrapbook, children play soccer in cobbled lanes, toddlers sit on thresholds and local mothers ignore the gleaming renovated guesthouse filled with we first world travelers.
By the 5:00 meeting time all but two of us had arrived and we met our Turkish guide, Mehlika Seval. After a brief and traditional welcome with chai (tea), merhabas and handshakes for all, "Meli" walked us to the 1500 year-old cistern, a cavernous world of arches, elegant brickwork, an assortment of odd capitals filled with drips, drops, music, and history. We got our "evil eye" lesson as well as Meli's first history talk. Outside Rick coached the group in the "gang street cross"- when our guide commits, we walk, all sticking together, raising our fists and shouting "solidarity!"
Still spacey from jet-lag, Rick figured this was as good a time as any for the name game. We circled tightly and learned our names with this helpful memory jogger. A local hustler looked at us curiously and asked if we were praying. Hard-working Meli arranged for a cozy elegant little restaurant to rush its paint job to open today for us and we enjoyed our first dinner. Barb and Tony Shindeler joined us and we celebrated. The group was now complete.
Hungry for stamps inspite of Meli's promise, we'd get them soon, most of the group set out to find something lickable. Failing they bumped into Rick and Meli near the hotel for some impromptu Back Door sightseeing. A tiny three machine fabric factory the size of two hotel rooms was spinning like a noisy top with player-piano type pattern dictating the weave. The owner said he had a warm spot for Americans and was pleased to have us peek in. Someone asked if we can ever climb a minaret. A minute later, just as the squawkey call to prayer went out, Meli arranged for us to climb the neighborhood minaret tower. A service was on, a small boy quoted the Koran with the knowing intensity I imagine Jesus had as a boy in the temple. We, worshipfully as possible, took off our shoes, enjoyed a quiet listen, then climbed the very dark and tight spiral stairs to the top for a sunset view of the Sea of Marmara and a bird's-eye peak into our home neighborhood. After kneeling on carpets with Muslims more likable than I've ever seen on American TV, we joined with the Islamic thought-"There is on God and he is Allah" (even if we count his prophets and son differently). A good finish to day one.
Thurs. May 9th, Istanbul
Sarah Cross
Why did I volunteer? I'm two days behind in my own journal! Oh, well. Yesterday, the wind was whipping up the dust, obscuring some of the glitz and glamour of Islam. Today is glorious; clear and bright, not quite hot. We started out a 9am, and went to the Hippodrome, where Meli gave a 40 minute historical orientation to this great city...Byzantium/Constantinople/Istanbul, with a time line to plug the art and architecture into. From there we went to the National Ethnographic museum, where we followed the evolution of Turkish domestic life from traditional nomadic tents into the living room of modern urban Turkish society. It seems that when the people were more dependant on the climate, the animals, and the crops, it was a more matriarchal society, and as they moved into cities, women were more confined to the hearth and home, where they became more ornamental (Islam being a great catalyst for this I'm sure) and men became more powerful in society. Meli promised we'd visit a family living in one of the nomadic "black tents."
Next, the Blue Mosque. Recently restored, the ceramic designs and painted friezes were full of crisp, gem-tone detail that made the walls glow like the stained glass windows they held. I hate to keep saying it's beautiful, but it is ! So gracious...so spacious. Next--more great food. We ate buffet-style at the Pudding Shop. It's a legendary hippy-dippy place, fallen on more mundane times; but, it did have a sign up "Mushroom special Today" (ha-ha). Like yesterday, we ordered various things and shared around: eggplant, stuffed zucchini, lamb with rice, meat loaf with egg, rice pudding, Turkish coffee and more. (Since this is an "included meal" Rick explained we could pick out whatever we wanted.) Then, we toured the Hagia Sophia (church-mosque-museum), a textbook example of the synthesis of cultures from ancient to modern times. (This "cultural synthesis" is one of Meli's teaching themes on this tour.) Unfortunately the large meal, the warm day, and maybe a touch of jet lag make some of my recollections scanty. Anyway, someone stopped taking notes. I know we went to the Topkapi Palace, built by the Ottomans so it looks like a tent, architecturally. We saw the Harem, with so much mystique wrapped in elegantly tiled walls, and the Treasury which was littered with gold, emeralds, and rubies-encrusted dishes, goblets, furniture and weaponry. Five o'clock and foot weary, some went straight to the hotel and some stopped at a fancy old hotel for a beer.
For dinner, we walked to Kum Kapi, a bustling fisherman's wharf-type area teeming with outdoor restaurants and Turk's feasting. Musicians and flower-pedalling children worked the crowds. Sitting at a long table, we were served God knows how many dishes. There were salads, burak (fried cheese rolls), calimari and yogurt, hot sauce, bulgar and horseradish dip, Raki, lotsa Raki and water. After the main course of whitefish in tomato sauce we had fruit for desert. We were too full for baklava. However, the maitre'de didn't forget to give yours truly a lovely rose, so the feast was definitely a success. Dodging potholes and after dark tricycles, we reeled back to the hotel.
Fri. May 10th, Istanbul
Ruth Nelson
Tonight we catch the train east so we checked out of our hotel and loaded into our awaiting bus. Our first bus ride in Turkey started punctually at 8:45am. Istanbul traffic is a sea of yellow cabs moving like a tidal wave.
Our first stop was the thousand year old Chora church which was wall papered with mosaics depicting the Bible stories of the Virgin Mary, birth of Jesus, the Apostles, and so on. Meli's explanations made it interesting as well as beautiful!
Then we went to Isticlal street, modern Istanbul's main pedestrian mall, for a chance to roam freely away from the tourists in work-a-day Istanbul. As Meli recommended, we went to the "flower market" area for a gastronomic scavanger hunt lunch. It was a galloping glutton's wonderland and we filled up on Turkish specialities like fried mussels with horseradish sauce, mussels on the half shell with sweet rice pilaf, lamb liver with young onion, and intestines. Intestines are like squid or tofu. They're chewy and, thankfully, taste like whatever you cook them with. I liked them, but I think some of the rest of the group was less enthused. All agreed, however, that the beer we washed things down with was great. We rendezvoued at the Pera Hotel where some of us paid a pilgrimage visit to Agatha Christie's room (she wrote "Murder on the Orient
Express")
Next our bus dropped us at the top of the Grand Bazaar where after a quick orientation, overly clear instructions on where we'd meet, and a story about how two ladies on the last trip didn't pay attention and got lost for six hours, we were set loose. "Looking is free today, madam." "Yes please, how can I make you happy?" "No problem, leather coats." "Please, drink some chai with me." The Grand Bazaar is grand and bazaar.
Nobody got lost! Me met where the Spice Market hits the Golden Horn and did our "solidarity march" across the busy highway to the harbor where our own private little ship took us on a cruise up the Bosporus. Sitting on the rooftop deck, we enjoyed a seagull's eye view of one of the world's most fascinating and busy harbours as Meli filled us in via the boat's PA system. Gliding under the Galata Bridge out of the Golden Horn, past the sultan's palace and the many minerets that forest old Istanbul and past the Dolmabace Palace, we sailed the narrow straits that seperate Europe and Asia. On the Bosporus we saw the tower where, in 17th century, a man used wings to fly across the Bosporus - historic flight. A flapper way ahead of his time. A highlight of the cruise was a quick stop in a village famous for its yogurt.
For dinner we drove to a typical middle class suburb. It was modern, comfortable, more like the USA, except filled with Turks. During our pre-dinner happy hour everyone shared a bit of biographical information about themselves. What a fun, interesting and varied crew we are! Turkiye - Meli says this is the new name of Turkey. A lively discussion ensued about the word "Turkey."
More wonderful exposure to ethnic food ended with a surprise birthday cake for Rick - traditional Turkey - chocolate cake with mousse. In Turkish birthday parties one more candle than the year is added and left lit to ensure a good forthcoming year. Off to the bus to catch the train - we had a whole car of couchettes for our group. Double rooms, beautiful beds--bunk beds, cozy togetherness but Alice feels lousy. We're pulling for a quick recovery. Goodnight all.
Sat. May 11th, Ankara
Edie Orner
There is always something special about riding a night train closed off in your own little cubbyhole - when you finally give up watching the lights flash by and crawl in the bunk, you're in one world and when you awaken for your first glimpse, you're in another. Most of us slept, at least satisfactorily. Breakfast in the dining car at 7am in preparation for 8am arrival. Wakeup call at 6:30 found nearly everyone already on the move and ready for Phase II of our tour. The only disquieting note was Robert's loss of his passport at the Grand Bazaar yesterday. (His moneybelt was in his daybag... A major reminder to the rest of us about moneybelts.) Alice is feeling better. Our new chariot was waiting--a cream-colored bus with green stripes, complete with Metin, our driver, who is Meli's long-time side-kick, sort of a bus driving Tonto.
First stop in Ankara: the Temple of Augustus, an example of how religions often use the same sites over the centuries and how religious concepts evolve with each layer. There we were, perched on pieces of marble columns and pediments looking at stone walls with Roman inscriptions while Meli explained about the 5 stages in the religious heritage of this spot: A Hittite temple to the sun and moon; a Phyrgian city - state temple to the goddess Cybele. Alexander the Great's temple to the same mother goddess; Augustus' Roman Temple; the church of the Galatians (mercenary soldiers who settled here after their jobs were done); and finally, the religious cherry on top was the minaret of a mosque. In general these varied religious buildings were made by adapting from the previous site rather than through destruction.
Some glimpses of Ankara - lots of men "hanging out" near the mosque on the site of Temple of Augustus - drinking coffee, playing backgammon, talking, praying. Large groups of men with the tools of their trade in boxes or satchels beside them - the daily laborer's "union hall", rows and rows of dolmus, the mini buses which crowd you on for a flat fee and augment the regular bus system; red-roofed single or double family houses blanketing the hills.
Next stop: the Museum of Anatolian Culture - a wonderfully organized, displayed, and labeled collection of findings from Anatolia--the best in Turkey. A rich warehouse of artifacts from paleolithic through Hittite, city state, Persian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Seljic Turks and Ottomans. Most Museums house collections from many places. This museum traces the evolution of mankind as it happened in one place--Anatolia. With Meli's commentary it was easy to identify the concepts of relative size as indicator of power and importance; the mother symbol as the deity representing renewal, life, rebirth; the development of decorations and embellishment as life becomes easier; the changes brought about by increasing wealth and importance of trade; and the development of leisure activities - music, circus type entertainments as shown on the reliefs from the Hittite city walls.
Lunch was another great group experience - meat from a doner kebab, sliced over a plate of pita bread in pieces, served with tomato sauce and melted butter and yogurt. It was a huge meal which Meli explained was actually a special request of small servings!
Ankara traffic was slow. Most on board mixed a little shut-eye into our tour of the Turkish capital's government buildings, residential areas, embassy row, and hordes of people on the shopping streets. Out last stop in Ankara was the Ataturk mausoleum and museum built atop a hill over-looking the city.
In Meli's words, "if there had been a new prophet, we believe it would have been Ataturk; he was a leader whose objectives were clearly defined; he reminded us of our identity." His program included these major social changes:
1. Separation of church/mosque and state
2. Emancipation of women
3. Development of education system
4. Changed alphabet to essentially the Roman alphabet
5. Adapted the metric system
"He rescued us from the buffet line of European colonialism and in ten years he brought us into the modern world. He created modern Turkey and gave our people a reason to be proud and patriotic." A long avenue flanked by statuary and lions leads to the large open courtyard with a simple colonnaded structure dominating one end; the other three sides enclosed with lesser building and passageway. The entire maussoleum complex is imposing and reminiscent of a Roman temple with its agora. It certainly underscores the concept of relationship of size to power. It is a commanding structure representing a continuing powerful impact on the Turkish people as is exemplified by Meli's commitment to his dream.
The rain began to fall - not cold, but wet, and we loaded on the bus for a four-hour drive to our next "home" in Nevsehir. Sporadic conversation, seat shuffling, napping, a snore or two, Rick's full length siesta on the bus floor, all were interspersed throughout the afternoon. Two stops: one at a gas station! Horrors---but Meli said it had great cheese pastry, which it did; and a quickie look at a Caravanserai--one of the biggest remaining--stables for the camels, covered for winter use; an open square for summer; places for the caravan drivers---you could almost hear the minstrels singing and playing their mandolins a long way from home.
A long drive taking us from the warm, benign western shores where historically life has been easier to central Turkey with its harsher climate bringing a harder life. Rolling through farmland--wheat, grasslands, rolling hills--we saw farmers living in villages and walking or riding long distances to work their fields. Life remains more traditional.
When we arrived, we were served small glasses of wine while we waited for our room assignments. The hotel, called the Green Hotel, is a perfect back door place. Family-run, traditional, simple but comfortable and friendly and surrounded by fascinating Anatolian village life and the bizarre eroded pinacles of Cappadocia. After dinner the lively went walking and the rest of us retired. Meli and Rick offered backgammon lessons in the lounge. Two nights in one place means laundry!! The lady of the house cleared a place on her laundry lines so we could hang our clothes out to dry.
P.S. Today Metin was stopped for speeding. Police gave him choice of $25 ticket or paying $18 cash to avoid the trouble of writing up a ticket. Bribery is alive and well in Turkey...and so are we.
Sun. May 12th, Cappadoccia
Barbara Shindelus
Most of our group met with Rick in the hotel lounge for a pre-breakfast Mother's Day church fellowship--started with a prayer and sharing of our concerns and religious impressions. It quickly became an emotional experience where similarities were expressed n our hopes and prayers for understanding and unity in the world. It was a challenge to work in Meli and Allah. We did pretty well. The Doxology was sung in unison.
Cappadoccia: Amazing formations. Fairy chimneys, cavelike dwellings, warm friendly village (Uchisar). Happened on a wedding. Groom was collecting the bride and dowry. Drums and clarinet piped the bride and groom in full costume from her home to the decorated car. Whole village in attendance. Clapping hands, moving furniture to open carts. Fine dowery. Smiling friendly villagers in native costume. Women with covered faces camera-shy. Unison prayer for the young couple. We tourists actually felt welcome.
Everywhere donkey carts with people in native dress.
Language lesson on bus. Gift from Mehlika to all women of tea glass in honor of Mother's Day. Ana means mother. Anatolia means "land of mothers." In Turkey, "mothers" are anyone who gives.
We climbed to top of fortress. Fabulous views. Huge area of scenic ruins. Lessons in geology and how area was formed. Many cave-like dwellings still inhabited. TV antenna and solar panels visible above some ancient homes. Learned about amazing fertility of this area. Crops of grapes, potatoes and onions grow in very little topsoil. One mound-like dwelling was a church. Top of columns remain only. Many colors of stone used to artistic advantage in buildings.
Open Air Museum (3500 ft. elevation): Monastic settlement. Ancient carved and eroded Christian basilicas and monasteries. Simple red paintings and designs of early Christian era (300-400 AD) to later, more ornate and detailed frescoes. Cool interiors hand chiseled out of stone. The monasteries were established by two St. Gregory's and one St. Basil.
We had Turkish-style pizzas and ayran a refreshing yogurt drink at a fancy carpet showroom. After an interesting demonstration we got the sales pitch complete with flying carpets. Rick warned us that we should only get a carpet as a practical souvenir, not to bring it home and resell it to pay for our next tour. Interesting explanation of carpet differences and quality. Several members of our group are now proud owners of Turkish carpets (and one Nomad crib wall hanging).
More interesting eroded formations near Zelve. Like little gnome houses perched on pillars. We climbed in recently-inhabited settlement. Saw flour-grinding wheel and explored mosque and apartments built high in rocks. Stairs were more like shallow foot and hand holes in sheer cliffs. Amazing that small families survived in these cliff-hanging homes. Spring flowers, green patches and trees growing at odd angles out of rocks and dwellings.
Took bus to pottery factory (Avenos). Crossed over Red River which flows into Black Sea. Beautiful red clay pottery from the red clay. Watched a demonstration by Galip, a journeyman potter. Sarah tried her hand at throwing a pot and it came out quite nice. Visited the pottery showroom and a tunnel room with ceiling and walls covered with labeled strands of women's hair. Each year the master potter chooses a strand of hair from the collection and that woman wins a trip with the master. Lotto prize: a week on a donkey...with the master. The master potter in his clay-splattered native costume made a teapot for us while watching his 4-year-old twin daughters and it came out perfectly. We were served local red wine in small pottery glasses.
An impromptu stop at Urgup for a walk up ancient streets to see a typical home from the inside. From the street we entered into a stable with potatoes and straw stored along the walls. A white goat and black donkey tethered in the next room. Up one half level was the courtyard with a woman working a pile of wool. All the local children gathered and asked to have their picture taken. We were served apples from last year's harvest and "Jerusalem artichokes". The apples were small yellowish red and sweet. We fed our apple cores to the donkey and goat - local garbage disposals. The women of the household gathered around and one asked if we wanted to buy a scarf she had embroidered. Gordon bought it and I asked the woman to demonstrate on me how it is worn. She draped it low over my forehead with my face half hidden and the ends piled on top at the back. Wonderfully exotic. She brought a mirror for me to see and we took pictures with the kids in the background. One woman snatched the laundry off the line as photos were snapped. As we left the village, small children shook our hands and waved at us.
Such a full day. We listened to tapes on the bus going back to hotel. Sara's birds chirping tape led right into Baroque organ music. Bach. Throughout the day Mehlika has been a tireless wealth of information, determined to give us every possible experience. It was she who knocked on a door in Urgup to ask if 20 Americans could peek into their private life. She wants us to miss nothing and understand everything. Never have we had a guide so dedicated to teaching and sharing her culture! Bravo, Meli!
One hour to rest and clean up, then dinner in the hotel dining room. Delicious ground meat stuffed eggplant was the main course. Everyone is dressed as nicely as possible with our one bag rationing. Mehlika looks especially stunning in a bright yellow mini suit and 4-inch black heels. (But she gets more than one piece of luggage.)
We're ready to party! Back on the bus to a local nightclub where native folk dances are featured. When Meli found out we were to be the only tour there tonight she invited the two small German tours staying at our hotel to join us at the club. When we arrived about 9pm there were two musicians waiting for us in the torch lit parking lot; a drum and clarinet played our way into the night club. The place was empty except for staff and one family. We immediately settled into the huge domed room and began drinking. Music started and Meli showed us a little Turkish-style dancing. Miten danced a little too, and the German tours arrived and settled in too. Throughout the evening, folk dancers entertained us in colorful costumes with lively native dances. The Turkish band played local music for the three tours and several tables of locals who arrived during the evening. Everyone was polite and having a good time, but our Back Door group was the life of the party. Everyone was dancing and clapping and cheering the folk dancers. A lovely belly dancer in blue costume came out and performed for awhile before she wisely selected Bob Hutchinson out of our group for her partner. He was a natural. He stripped down and cavorted like he's been belly dancing all his life although Mary Ann says it's a skill she never knew he had in their 27-year marriage. Even the somber-faced Turks were smiling and laughing by the end of Bob's act. I guess belly dancing is just for the tourists and not well thought of in Turkey. It's not a native dance here, but foreigners think it is and expect it. Tony Shidelus and Robert Kwong also fell victim to the belly dancer, but their stints were mercifully short as Bob was a hard act to follow.
As we left the night club, pictures of the crowd were on display for sale. Bob bought several. A star is born.
Mon. May 13th, Cappadoccia to Guzelyurt
Joyce Ditore
After our usual Turkish breakfast (cheese, tomatoes, bread, olives, cucumbers and cherry jam) we boarded the bus at 9 am. We had our morning language lesson: nasulsun - how are you; ee yee eem - swell, thank you; and a couple other phrases. Then Meli told us about the Turkish flag - the symbolism of the crescent and star.
In half an hour or so we arrived at the underground city of Kaymakli, carved straight down into the earth - some nine stories deep - by the early Christians to flee the persecution of the invading Arabs. We only went down three levels, but it is unbelievable how these were carved out in such detail. The explanation was given that the plan was a tree trunk and all the rooms going off in different stories and directions were the branches. Some of the connecting tunnels were very low - a tight fit for me and I'm only 5 feet tall. The lights went out once for just a moment but it was scary - can't imagine what total darkness would be like. The people did not live here but used it as a haven for up to 3 months at a time if they were being invaded, but it's hard to imagine what 3 months down that far would be like. As Meli said, you have to see it to believe it.
We only had 15 minutes for shopping, but several people bought handknit sweaters, vests, and so on. Doesn't take long to find bargains! Barbara bought a pretty white scarf and the lady who made it tied it for her. Meli explained on the bus the difference in the traditional scarf and the religious scarf. In the Cappadoccia area many women we see wear the scarf for practical purposes.
Our stay in the tiny river-side village of Belisirma seemed to fly by. Mitten dropped us off at the top of the hill and we had a walk down a steep hill (steeper on the way up) to the valley bottom. We followed the eager local kids up to carved-in hillside church while our lunch was prepared. Rick commandered a donkey. We ate in the open air at a campground - fritata, bean soup, bulgar, salad, and apples. After lunch we were serenaded by the chef and his father led us in dancing. We lingered for photos with the children (the policeman was great; a bristly old man with a dusty cap and a walking stick...he was the entire village police department), then climbed the hill for tea at the home of the village leader (muchtar). The home was modest, but we fit 20 of us plus several curious young village ladies for tea in a room about 13 by 20. Very hospitable people!
We arrived in Guzelyurt at 3:30 and met in the hotel dining room for wine and conclusion of the story of how Rick and Meli found this city last year. We're back because of the town hospitality! There has been a Hittite excavation that is yet unreported so we have beat the crowds. Our hotel was built in 1858 as a religious school for girls---it's wonderful (I have a penthouse). In 1922 the powers that be decided to purify their countries of religious minorities and the Moslem-Turkish population in Greece was swapped for the Christian population of Anatolia and the demographic ground was paved for a future of problems between two "pure" and very different religious nations. In August families return from Greece to visit their ancestral hometown.
We sat on hillside and listened and watched the beauty around us. Below us sat the church (now a mosque) where the first Gregorian church music was chanted.
Dinner was a sight to behold! Each meal is as if to outdo the last. Tonight takes the prize.
Our evening group reflections period was on the Gulf War. Me met and talked with a Turkish Kurd. We all shared and learned.
(If you want to mail snap shots: Campsite where we had beans:
Sait Aslan, Belisirma Koyu, Aksaray. New bride's address:
Oguz Aslan, Belisirma Koyu, Aksaray.)
May 14th, Guzelyurt to Konya
Bob and Mary Ann Hutchison
A pre-breakfast walk led us to the village square where we saw Mitten and the museum caretaker enjoying a glass of tea with the local gang. We were invited to join in. We tried to converse in English with the museum man offering the words in Turkish and German as well. Most delightful. We moved on to another shop to chat with other Americans only to find ourselves being offered chairs and more tea. These Turks are such great people. It a pity so many visitors see only the big cities or cruise ports. Outside of our group, I don't think this town ever sees an American.
Breakfast at the pension was a real treat. The food, silverware, and teacups were placed on huge trays in the center of the two main rooms. Crowding knee to knee on the "dowry" carpet, we feasted on cucumbers, tomatoes, fresh honey, goat butter, goat cheese, a vegetable dish and fresh bread---all local products. Two Australians joined us sharing their adventures through Thailand, Yugoslavia, and Bulgaria.
Shoes back on and we wander on our own for an hour or so. Bob and I joined the elementary school children for a fast game of ball (volley ball without the net), enjoying a tour of the school as well as the hospitality of the three teachers.
Others had a tour of the mosque and others had their own back door adventures.
We gathered for a visit to the pension owner's mother-in-law's home--women were greeted with a kiss and men with a handshake. All were welcomed into her large kitchen. She wasn't sure why we wanted to remove our shoes for a kitchen tour! A mountain of well-used copper pots filled the corner. The refrigerator and a two-burner hotplate were her only "modern" conveniences, but her healthy-looking family showed us that room provide plenty of nourishment.
Huge bags of grain lined the storage room of the house. A three-foot stack of flat bread caught our eye. It was traditionally baked in the fall for the whole year's use. Mama generously allowed us to sample her latest batch.
Shoes were off again in the large living room alive with color from the rugs and wall hangings. Turkish music, and of course dancing, tea and conversation brought the customs of the village family into our lives.
We learned that many Turkish men work out of the country while the women tend the home and field; also that education is compulsory through 5th grade (6-10 is an option).
On to the bus for a long drive to Konya. Meli's first lesson was on the basics of the Islamic faith:
1) Express belief in God and Mohammed as his prophet
2) Pray five times a day - practical as the various prayer positions provide exercise and ritual bathing keeps them clean.
3) Fasting for one month from sunrise till sunset every day for one month to encourage self-discipline and health.
4) Give 1/40 of your wealth to the poor (if debt-free).
5) Once in your lifetime visit Mecca (encourages travel). Mohammed said: "Don't tell me how old you are, tell me how much you have traveled and I'll tell you how wise you are."
Lunch at a rest stop. There was a great gift shop, fruit stand, ice cream man as well as real food. Many of us enjoyed our fruit outside in the warm fresh air. We are crossing a flat plateau with green fields edged with yellow and sometimes lavender flowers. Rick pointed out a big lake--oop! It's just a mirage.
Long ride is broken up by entertainment from Miten. He san a lovely Turkish tune from the Black Sea. This naturally led Meli to a story about the Black Sea people. Actually it was more of a bawdy joke rather than a story. She continue to amaze us with her facts as well as fiction. "Melidramatic," "Melipulation," "he was Melied," she is a rare dynamic person who causes people to make up words to describe life with and around her.
Arriving in Konya we all head for the WC. In trying to steer the women in the right direction, Rick got too close to the door---two men hollered at him until he turned away. That WC smelled like an Illinois outhouse in August!!
Rick likes Konya as it represents a work-a-day, internal Turkish city. Meli contradicts that it is not a typical town because of its religious fanaticism.
Shoes off again for a visit to the Mevlana Museum and tomb of the religious leader and poet Mevlana. A great student, teacher and philosopher he formed an order of Islam which worshipped by twirling in special way (trance-like) one foot in Konya, the other circling the 72 nations with hand raised to God. As they whirl they pour out God's love.
Mevlana's cloth covered casket was surrounded by colorful arches and his relatives rested to his side. Meli pointed out interesting instruments and pictures as we browsed through the museum. We are beginning to doubt the meaning of "secular" state in Turkey, as the history of the whirling Dervishes' demise differed from Meli's expanation. Turkey's Moslems (99%) are moderate and Ataturk wanted to hold down the fanatics. He suggested translating the Koran into Turkish, an unheard-of practice to put the Koran in the language of the people (sounds like Martin Luther). We are still a bit confused on this "secular' issue but learning more every day. When Meli questioned separation of church and state in the USA by the fact that we have "in God we trust" on our coins, the group wanted to sit down right now and have a "reflections" time. Rick is working hard to teach Meli the concept of "bully pulpit." She has so many strong feelings as a well educated third world patriot predictably would, but it's important for her to learn to respect differing opinions and realize that her strongly held feelings are not necessarily universal facts.
Free time for our own Back Door adventures [I bought a Turkish shalvor (baggy pants)].
Dinner at the Miten Restaurant was excellent. Tarkana soup, pastry with spiced veal, zucchini, lamb chops and fruit. Such a feast seemed to need a blessing so leader Rick offered his "blessing between the beat" of Turkish background music.
Back at the hotel, "reflection time" covered an assortment of topics: "In God We Trust," medical facilities for Kurds vs. Turks, wastebaskets, pay toilets (great when needed), the bus company, military service, and prisons. Wow, all in one hour! John ended the session by falling asleep. Good night, folks. (Address of Pension and mother-in-law in Guzelyurt to send snap-shots: Kadir Gok, Guzelyurt, Aksaray)
May 15th, Konya to Antalya and the Mediterranean Coast
Bob Kwong
About half the group left at 6am for the optional side-trip to Catal Huyuk, the site of the oldest city on earth. Those who went were glad they did. Those who slept in didn't regret that either. After breakfast we left Konya. During the ride Meli discussed the Turkish educational system which sounds somewhat discouraging for the kids. Chances of going to a university is slim (less than 1 in 10). 900,000 took the exam, but only 84,000 got admitted which a choice of study. Meli has a brilliant son studying in Oklahoma as an intercultural exchange student. Her daughter will be growing up more before deciding on her future studies. Meli was an American Friends (AFS) student.
Cultural notes: Young people do live together prior to marriage, but only in the bigger cities (Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir).
Arrived in a small town named Huglu with an exact population of 3023 people at an elevation of 1,410 meters high. The mayor said they had a primary, a middle and a vocational school. He was noticeably proud that there are 10 students in universities. The mayor expects tourism to dwindle at the seacoast towns due to "corruption." The nice building that we had our picnic in was built in preparation for tourism. (It seemed we were the only tourists who have ever visited.)
After lunch we had a most wonderful surprise. Over a 150 children waited outside for us to greet us, just as the sun came out. What luck. Six boys and six girls performed traditional, local dances clicking wooden spoons in rhythm to haunting Turkish music. The children were all so beautiful, clean and well-behaved. Chairs were set up in the muddy field for us to sit on. Just imagine, all the children and teachers in the two school turned out to greet us---a wonderful surprise.
All the while we were entertained, the town's soccer team was making goals against their local opponent in the lower field. Every time "our" team made a goal, all cheered including the children. What a joyous time.
During these festivities, a charming little girl went to the microphone to sing happy birthday to Gordon, except she sang happy birthday to Hatice, another girl's name, because that's the way she learned the song.
Afterwards we all sang "I've Been Working on the Railroad," making up for lack of quality with volume. The villagers responded with gracious, loud and long applause.
Then it was off we went to the Mediterranean seashore through the mountains. But first a nature stop just outside of town. Women to the right and men to the left. All discreetly behind bushes, trees, or rocks.
During the ride of about five hours we encountered a large herd of black migrating goats and slow going on lots of rough road. Metin, our driver, handled the bus beautifully. So far, no one showed the slightest concern about the driving because of Metin's professional abilities.
Arriving in Antalya after dark we dumped our bags into taxis and walked deep into the old center of Antalya. While we feared the worst, our Pension Arcadia turned out to be a beautiful, clean, large, charming pension in a dark narrow alley. We all went out for dinner on our own. Another interesting day in Turkey.
May 16th, Our Mediterranean Cruise
John Morgan
Breakfast was served by hosts Nuray and Cuma Demir in their garden patio. Coffee under blue sky, a few white clouds and sunshine! Pre-breakfast exploring by a few of us found an auction of fish to market and restaurant operators.
Our pension hostess was kind enough to arrange to have our laundry done while we spent the day cruising. Judging by the pile of laundry, this was a welcome offer to many in our group.
Had the unusual experience this morning of meeting a young man with a brother in the carpet business!
The streets of Antayla around our pension are an interesting mixture of attractively remodeled shops, pensions, and badly deteriorated buildings waiting to be restored as tourism grows.
We walked down to the harbor where our yacht was waiting to take us on a lazy all day cruise to the Lcyian region city of Phaselis. In the bay overlooking the ancient site we anchored to feast on grilled trout and spaghetti served by our salty crew, laze in the sun, play backgammon and swim. We were ferried ashore by a local dinghy captain and Meli gave us a tour of Phaselis. It was dusk and there wasn't a tourist in sight as Meli brought this remote 2000 year old ruined city back to life. History records that the occupying people may twice have fought to their death to protect their home. One is always impressed by te Roman ability to construct theaters, baths, and agora in these ancient towns.
We sat in the theater with a magnificent setting looking toward the mountains listening to Meli weave her story of the area's history.
The city, Meli believes, may have held 60,000 people. This number estimated by multiplying the seating of the theater (6,000) by 10.
After Meli's lecture, the dinghy skipper, a shaggy gentleman who looks like an obese Gilligan, presented each of our ladies with a Caesar-type laural wreath crown.
Metin was waiting faithfully with our bus and we enjoyed a beautiful one hour drive back to Antalya. In spite of the breathtaking scenery, many slept until two belly dancers danced up and down the aisle of the bus, receiving payment for our laundry in return for the entertainment! Meli finished with more bills than Rick.
Given the choice of going as a group to a highly recommended restaurant for dinner or eating and shopping on their own, a few chose the latter. Their loss--as we enjoyed some excellent fish and lamb in a beautiful waterside setting, and toped it off with some terrific rice pudding. A memorable evening!
May 17th, Antalya to Pamukkale
Gordon Stevenson
Another typical Back Door bright sunny day. (Although Rick promised rain by Pamukkale!)
Breakfast at Pansion Arcadia was a wonderful surprise. A superb special egg dish prepared by Meli---outstanding complement to good Arcadia fare---potatoes and eggs in some magical mixture.
We were on the bus by 8:00--several of us almost late as Metin fought off local parking police for third time. We were tempted to go see the local kids rehearse for May 19 celebration--all heading off together in costume--but priorities beckon and we drove north.
This is rugged terrain. As we drove past the only area in Anatolia that Alexander the Great couldn't conquer, we pondered how tough life must have been for these people went through!
The drive was a much-interrupted two-hour Meli lecture on "Why Christianity came here, why it flourished here, and what impact Anatolia had on Christianity". Some of us slept; others want to buy Meli's next book, which is on that subject (some of us want to be her agent, so she can enjoy some royalties for an effort that will appeal to Christians around the globe! For her first book, she settled for the royalties her slick big city publisher offered: "the joy and pride of seeing your writing in print.")
Meli's "Anatolia in the Bible" lecture began with the Hittite references in the Old Testament and touched in Genesis on Garden of Eden (between Tigris and Euphrates, possibly in Turkey); Tree of Life (common symbol in many religions); Noah and his ark (mysteriously moored on Turkey's Mt. Ararat); olive branch (from West Anatolia where it's easy to grow); Abraham and his family (lived in Southeast Turkey before moving to Canaan).
New Testament references: Christians first called that in Antioch (Southeast Turkey) where St. Peter built the first Christian church; St. Paul (a tent-maker by trade) set out on his missions from Anatolia: Tarsus to Cappadocia to Konya (Iconium) to Antioch of Pisidia, Lystra, Derbe, and Perge and Mira (from where St. Nicholas came), Ephesus, and so on. Paul's "letters" were also written to "churches" in Anatolia.
Our first stop was to visit a semi-nomadic family living in black tents. This view of the past--a changing way of life--with goats everywhere, even under the small truck--was on Rick and Meli's "must experience" check-list. The family welcomed us into their tent and served us tea. The man answered questions, shared goat cheese and homemade bread and played his homemade flute for us. Rugs on ground, waterproof wool covered roofing. Things are changing though--last year it was floor only---this year covered benches were there to sit on---some bought handmade scarves. He rents this land from the village for about $40 a year.
In this beautiful setting, enjoying the warmth and simple hospitality of this disappearing way of life, we had mixed feelings. [address: Ahmet Wulu, Yazir Koyii, Korkuteli, Anatolia, Turkey.
On our second stop we saw rugs being made on loom outside a home in the village of Datkoy. Each rug was decorated in symbols: scorpions, Tree of Life, symbol of Cybele, bulls' horns. Rick sprung for a beauty (with St. Nicholas' cross), and Jack picked up a great one with two lambs. No bargaining here--fixed prices of about $100 per rug.
Back on road at 10:30, Meli finished the final part of St. Paul lecture. Paul was radical, asking for emancipation for Onesimus (in letter to Philomen); Onesimus later became bishop of Ephesus. Meli finished by saying "Anatolia should be considered part of the Holy Land" and then she gave a good interpretation of Book of Revelation. She called it a modern prophecy for all Christians, with the seven churches representing seven stages over the centuries of the Christian church, concluding with the possibility that the seventh church represents Christians today who may be neither hot nor cold but "lukewarm" in their faith [buy Meli's next book!]---a good topic for reflection!
Before noon we lucked into a great scene: over 150 kids were in their school yard practicing for May 19--Ataturk Day. The village was Askerlik Subesi. Girls were doing a "spoon dance," a boy tried his fez on Rick. Rick and Edie tried the spoons out. We almost joined the festivities---very colorful and fun--but there was just not enough time.
Passing fields of white and purple poppies, we got another short lecture about how many good things can come from poppies (seeds for flour; poppy oil; leaves for animals, and so on) and how Turkey resisted US pressure to stop production and instead devised a system to buy the parts that can produce opium from the farmers, so they can continue to grow the plant, which is very useful for them.
At Yesilova we were stopped for a while by a large group of kids parading back from a May 19 day rehearsal--lots of waving to kids on the street. Reminded me of one of our once-a-year Little League Parades. All the kids in town seemed to be part of it---girls in culottes--brass horns in band--it seemed to be "morning in Turkey," everyone was happy.
Drove up and up, hairpinning through rich farmland country into the lake region. The water near the lakeshore was like turquoise. No superhighway...yet. Stopped once to check out a poppy field, very pretty. If government catches you growing poppies for opium it's a life sentence.
Eleven scalp massages by Sarah helped the drive go more quickly---much appreciated. Nuts and goodies passed around by various people also helped the ride fly by. Traces of snow still in the mountains.
At lunch we learned that yoghurt and garlic counterbalance each other to help keep your blood pressure down. Can you believe that--that alone is worth the price of a Back Door trip!
We hit Hieropolis around 4 PM. Visited ruins, then swam (heavenly!) at Pamukkale ("Cotton Castle" in Turkish).
A major highlight of the day was an excellent altercation between Meli and another "guide" who was tramping all over an ancient domed tomb with two tourists so they could have a "better" view. He showed little understanding of where he was standing and after being read the riot act by Meli he proceeded to march back up, bend over, and look at the ground for 10 seconds or so. A great example, among other things, of the fact that there are good and bad guides, just like good and bad Turks...Americans, Moslems, and Christians!
Hieropolis is impressive: founded about 200 BC, peaked in about 300 AD, exceptional location, overlooking a valley near hot springs. Saw Roman bath later converted to Christian church. Largest cemetery in Roman Empire (Necropolis) went all the way up into the hills. Roman citizens considered Hieropolis the ultimate retirement community. Very therapeutic area. Large "arch" (of triumph) remains, plus big amphitheater (possibly 120,000 lived here). Saw a number of different styles of burial places, including above-ground sarcophagi, and tumuli.
Swam till 6 PM in superb hot-spring fed pools filled with underwater Roman columns; Jack explained to Rick how to ski down one, all the chest hairs on John Ditore turned black again, and Bob's knee swelling went down even further! Most of us almost voted to cancel the rest of the tour.
Some daring souls went down via the white calcified cliffs while others (who got lost) returned along the road.
An exceptional location both geographically and historically---another example of the wonderful surprises offered by Turkey. Back to hotel by 7 and dinner at 8, this was another superb Back Door day in Turkey.
May 18th, Aphrodisias to Kusadasi
Dave and Lavon McCallum
Just another boring day in Paradise! Roll call began at 5am with the longer and louder than usual call to worship. After our typical Turkish breakfast we were on the bus and ready to roll by 8:30.
After a couple of camera stops we were met by a family of camels who were anxious to meet an American tour group. In fact, Baby Camel was so excited she did a somersault right over Papa Camel. We paired up and all took the camel out for a spin. A good time was had by all, including the Turkish on-lookers. On the way back to board the bus, we came upon an old woman baking flat bread in the old Turkish brick oven and since this group either cannot or will not pass up the chance to eat again we tried "sac baregi" (hot flat bread, filled with spinach and cheese and rolled up).
Back on the bus again on the way to Aphrodisias we had question and answer time with Meli. These sessions are always entertaining but this one was particularly memorable: Meli tolk her story about the tour she led with a bus full of lesbians, who were also witches and came from San Francisco.
This drive is particularly beautiful today. I especially love all the beautiful wildflowers along the road and in the fields. We found a field full of "fragile brides of the field" and did a picture stop which doubled as a potty stop for some.
Further down the road the bus had to stop to let a sheep herder and his flock of sheep get out of the way--a classic scene...and photo op.
Between all the activity of the people working in their fields and the heavily loaded donkeys and the Turkish folklorico music being played on the bus, it makes me sad to think our tour's almost over.
Next major stop was the ancient site of Aphrodisias. We started at the museum. Its beautiful collection of artifacts and sculptures, excavated from the ruins, gave us a peek at human life as it was 2500 years ago. This is the place where Rick met Meli and was so impressed with her ability to make ancient art tell its story. Meli brought everything to life. I'll never look at art the same. She looks at the statues and can really see what life was like then...the hairstyles, how the clothes were draped, by being able to tell what work they did. On top of this, now I even have to contemplate the pure physical aspect of handling, transporting and polishing these very large, heavy pieces of marble. I'll never be able to go into another museum now without thinking of Meli's great love for these beautiful pieces of art.
Next, we meandered through the beautiful, ancient city. The city's name comes from the Greek name for the goddess of love, Aphrodite. The temple was famous and a favorite goal of pilgrims for over 1,000 years, from the 8th century BC. The city ruins lay abandoned until about 25 years ago and is now being continually excavated.
We walked up hills and through poppy fields, visited the theater, the agora, the baths and the giant stadium. I love to sit on the seats in these ancient stadiums. I can almost see the chariots racing below.
Back on the bus we rolled down the valley of the Meander river. The valley is lush with vegetation. Olives, figs, pomegranates abound. Next major stop was lunch at Meander. It was a neat little restaurant, where we sat outdoors at white tables with little blue chairs and ate cucumber and tomato salad, yogurt and cucumber soup, veal and lamb shish-kebabs and apple pie and a sweet wheat pudding dessert. All good--except maybe the pudding?
After a long drive we pulled into the port city of Kusadasi at about 6:30. We left the bus in the parking lot and while Tony and Meli commandeered taxis for our luggage, the rest of us followed Rick up the hill to the Konak Hotel. This hotel is full of charm. We were greeted with a glass of wine and met the owners and were given keys.
At 7:45 we had reflection time in the courtyard while Meli explained what the Eastern Turkey tour next year would be like. Everyone is on their own for what is left of the day, while I am sitting in this room writing my share of the journal--but now I am done and time to do my wash, take a shower and hit the sack!
Thanks to all of you for a wonderful time!
Pentecost Sunday, May 19th, Ephesus
Alice and Cass Kowaleski
We enjoyed another Sunday morning fellowship in the cool hotel courtyard. Gordon read from the Bible, we had some good discussion sharing some of our "travel on purpose" thoughts, and after a short prayer by each of those attending we ended with the doxology sung by all. Breakfast followed with scrambled eggs and home-made jam... delicious.
Today is a national Turkish holiday, Youth and Sports Day. As we leave the hotel and walk down to our bus, the youth of Kusadasi are marching to their stadium in colorful costume for the festival, along with drum and bugle corps.
Mitan is waiting with bus to take us to Selcuk to see the children's festival in that small town. En route, Mehlika and Rick describe the "Turkish Bath" we shall have this evening in alarming terms.
We arrive in Selcuk schoolyard to see the beginning of their celebration. While aiting Tony and Barb have conversation with basketball player who has surfed in Long Beach. Bob examines school book of young Turkish lad and Dave and LaVon meet a young man with a pen pal from Seattle!
The Turkish flag is raised, the anthem sung. Several speeches, later Mehli tells us the students speech stirred her to tears. We see the girls' "drill team" perform. Then we must leave, after a cuke-fix, it is very warm.
It's a short walk to the museum. They have Mehlika's book "Let's Visit Ephesus," and we have refreshments in museum courtyard with a strange duck and peacock. Meanwhile Meli confers with museum director about inappropriateness of phone booths at ancient sites, protecting trees and those who walk on tumulus.
In the museum, Mehlika first describes a typical day in life of the dignitaries in the ancient homes. We see sections of frescoes, examples of clever folding furniture, toiletries, mosaics, children's toys, a beautiful blue glass tray, and kitchen utensils. Mehlika's description of the beautiful fountains of Ephesus reconstructs them in our imagination from pieces of statuary and columns displayed.
We hear the story of the "God of Fertility," see Christian Icons, the lovely statue of Artemis, the Mother God of the City and hear the story of the founding of Ephesus by the Amazons.
We lunch nearby on bean salad and Kebobs, then are bussed back to the Virgin Mary's house on a hilltop above Ephesus. The house is now a church where Christians and Moslems worship together. We have postcards stamped here. It's a lovely peaceful setting above a spring which is thought to be holy water.
Back down the hill to Ephesus, Melika points out how the sea, which once reached the city, silted up. Malaria was the downfall of Ephesus.
The site of the 3rd city of Ephesus is the most spectacular we have seen. For Rick and Meli, this is the climax of our tour. We stopped first at the agora and water system. Then the Odeon, townhall with adjacent temple. The beautiful broad marble streets, mosaic walks, temples and fountains. The most spectacular library and theater. In the theater Mehlika spoke from the stage about Paul and the Ephesians. She could be heard most everywhere...great acoustics. We are all charmed by the public toilets. For a fine description, read Mehlika's book (it was on sale in every shop here).
Heading back to Kusadasi, we say goodbye to Mitan as this is our last bus ride. Off to the Turkish bath...a unique experience - misty, naked, brillo-pad rub-downs, sauna, under byzantine domes, quick rough massage, doused by buckets of steaming hot water, commraderei, relaxing, fresh orange juice in the lobby.
Dinner, dance and Joyce's birthday at a romantic restaurant down a narrow byway near our hotel. Our last supper featured delicious food, good company and Rick and Mehlika presenting special awards to each in our group (see below).
May 20th, Tour over, sail to Greece
Sarah Cross
We've been so fortunate that the only rain on this trip has occurred when we were on the bus or asleep. Last night it poured torrentially, but after an overcast start, this morning glowed fresh-washed in the bright hot sun.
We came together for the last breakfast. While munching on goat cheese-and-spinach pitas, hasty mental calculations were buzzing in our heads as we realized we had a very short time to unload all the excess lire we carried. The last and greatest shopping frenzy ensued after the third cup of coffee. It was great fun, especially after all the fantastic and educational things we'd been doing for two weeks, to give in to simple greed.
We straggled into the courtyard of Hotel Konak with our new treasures. Then, the packing/repacking started. A few beers and juices were shared, along with travel itineraries. Most of the group was going to Samos with Rick. Barb, Tony, Ruth would stay maybe a week or so in the Greek Isles, but the rest were heading home in the next day or two via Athens.
By mid-morning we piled baggage into taxis, then we walked ourselves to the harbor. LaVon and Meli started off the tears and goodbyes, and a damp but happy leave-taking was made by all. The Samos-bound group loaded onto a snappy little tug/ferry named the "Diana."
After a relaxing two-hour voyage we landed in Samos town. Customs was a walk-through 40 yards from the gang-plank. Our hotel was just across the street. After a short orientation and making sure everyone was comfortable with their post tour plans, Rick gave us our room assignments and we were on our own. This was a needed decompression time as most of us just took it very easy in this very easy to take town.
Our tour was officially over the next morning. We all eventually got home and Turkey became a fat two weeks of memories which we will tuck away, never forget...and often revisit in the frequent flying travel dreams of our futures.
Turkey Through the Back Door 1991 Awards (highlights only)
(We give awards to participants of our tours at each tour's "last supper." These were some of the 1991 Turkey awards:)
This guy's in a class by himself. What can we say? The Shiatsu King, Meli's antihistamine, the jerk who gave Rick six pounds of M and Ms, the man with the Mt Ararat knees, the master of Turkish telephones, the only Yank in Turkey without a passport, the cheapskate who said the wine's on me...but only bought four bottles: The "if awards were girls, he'd have a harem" award goes to Bob.
Twice this man dropped sexist bombshells and survived unscathed. He spent thirty minutes practicing sliding down the columns in the Pamukkale pool, but he was loved above all else for keeping the bus well-stocked with snacks, the "Sultan of Munchies" award goes to Jack.
For commendable sensitivity to the local culture, from the way she kneeled quietly in the Istanbul mosque to the Black Tent way she wore her hair, the "Veiled Yankee" award goes to Barbara.
As this man dangled happily from the top floor of a Cappadocian sky-scraper he nearly ended the tour by giving us a communal heart attack. If goats drank Raki, they could climb to the stars with this man. This is much more than a tony award, the coveted "Turkish goat man" award goes to our very own Mr Raki, Tony.
For the man who savors history like a delicious Turkish meal and who could be comfortable rocking in a small boat with St. Paul, the "Inquiring Mind" award goes to Huglu's favorite (and only) American birthday boy, Gordon.
To the woman who really believes a bus load of tourists can learn Biblical history as they sleep, the woman who actually had officials considering reopening the Domabaci Palace Prison, a guide who's determination to teach and give is as steady and powerful as the Anatolian sun, the "If you weren't a woman I know what I'd do with you" award goes to the best guide in Turkey and our good friend, Mehlika Seval.
